Thursday, September 12, 2013

Grand Teton National Park and the Foxy Lady

 

So after spending two weeks in Yellowstone, I headed out on Thursday morning. But I stopped first at the Grant Village Laundry/Showers and did both. And that is where I saw my dream camping machine.

One of the things I really enjoy about walking through different campgrounds is checking out the equipment. Tents, trailers, RV’s, it is like walking through a showroom outdoors. From tiny single person tents to 45 foot quad slide-out diesel pushers, it is all on display.

I have always been drawn to smaller vehicles. I owned several Volkswagen Westphalia's many years ago and that is my style of ride. You can buy a completely restored and improved one from GoWesty for around $70K (!?!) but for about the same money you can get one of these:

Sportsmobile

That would be a short wheelbase high roof Sprinter Van customized by Sportsmobile. The owners were from California and let me take a look inside. It was the “50” floor plan which basically mimics the Westphalia’s interior with a lot more space.

I offered a straight trade for my car, bike, and Glenn’s trailer but they politely declined. We ended up leapfrogging each other on the drive to Grand Teton.

There was still one last campground to visit on the way out of Yellowstone called Lewis Lake.

Lewis Lake Sign

It’s a good sized campground with 84 sites but nothing like the behemoths like Grant and Bridge Bay that have over 400 sites. This place is a favorite for locals as it is right between Yellowstone and Grand Teton and has a great fishing lake and boat ramp.

Lewis Lake

Lewis Lake Boat Ramp

The sites are good sized and shaded, like number 47, but the camp road is tight so vehicles over 25 feet long are not allowed.

Lewis Lake_047

I continued onwards.

Grand Teton Sign

The two National Parks are only about 10 miles apart. One of the first views you come across is Jackson Lake and the Tetons rising dramatically from the shore.

Empty Jackson Lake

They had been having a drought here all summer. The lake level was very low. Wait until you see the photo of the marina.

But Moisture Man had arrived and it rained for a few hours every day I was there. In fact, there was even an article in the local paper about how the new rainstorms had greatly decreased the fire danger. I kept waiting for an interview but no one showed up.

There was a primitive campground in this area called Lizard Creek that I wanted to check out but it was closed and gated.

No matter, my campground for the next three nights was Colter Bay.

Colter Bay Sign

And that is where I found a foxy lady waiting for me at my campsite. At my picnic table. Under it, actually.

Foxy Lady 1

She had beautiful reddish blond hair with white whiskers. I used my standard line.

“Hey cutie, what’s your sign?”

I think she was foreign because it was hard to understand her response.

I believe it was something along the lines of “Shut up you idiot I am trying to catch a mouse!”

The mouse got away and so did Red.

I think my standard line is a little old.

Foxy Lady 2

A Ranger stopped by and I told her of my sighting.

She told me that a pair of red foxes had been terrorizing the campground all summer. What they would do is look for any shoes that were left out overnight. And they would take just one from each set. Which explained this one that was left on top of my bear box.

Single Shoe

Yep, just the one shoe. So somewhere in the woods around Colter Bay is a pile of single shoes.

I chuckled and made tacos. You can see the shoe in the top right of the photo.

Tacos

Red stopped by again on Friday morning.

Foxy Lady 4

I gave her one of my treadless hiking shoes and she left. I never saw her again. Take care, Red. I will miss you.

The plan for Friday was to visit Signal Mountain and Jenny Lake Campgrounds. On the way there I passed over Jackson Lake Dam and captured some nice views of Mt. Moran and the Tetons.

Mt. Moran 1

Mt. Moran 2

Signal Mountain is a cool spot with 85 sites and a secret you won’t find on any of the National Park handouts.

Signal Mountain Sign

Walking distance from the campground is a lodge and a store.

Signal Mountain Lodge

Signal Mountain Store-Gas

There are also several sites with electricity. Look closely at the site sign.

Signal Mountain_012

For just $24 dollars more than the standard rate you can plug in. OK.

The secret lies in the boat launch area.

Signal Mountain Boat Ramp

There are 20 parking spots for day use where you can enjoy views of the mountains and play on the beach.

Signal Mountain Beach

Grand Tetons 1

Shhh. Don’t tell anyone.

The most popular campground in the park is Jenny Lake. Tent only. Fills up very early every day.

Jenny Lake Sign

Jenny Lake

The reason is the hiking. This is the closest campground to the mountains and offers a bazillion hiking trails ranging from not much walking, like taking the ferry boat across Jenny Lake, to actually hiking up the Tetons.

Grand Tetons 3

A typical campsite looks like number 6.

Jenny Lake_006

Which brings me to an observation. In my mind there are two types of campgrounds. I call them Destination Campgrounds and Base Campgrounds.

Most National Parks and some State Parks like Custer are Base Campgrounds. That means no one is there during the day. The campsite is secondary. The attractions lie elsewhere. Everybody is out driving to different locales to hike, fish, climb, or just plain explore the geysers, canyons, and wildlife. You never really meet them except for a passing wave of the hand.

A Destination Campground is just that. A destination. You might not even start an engine for a weekend or a week. They are on a lake, river, or ocean. They usually have an over-priced store within walking distance and possibly a resort nearby for dining out. You will find all kinds of boat rentals.

The campground is full of kids riding bikes during the day. Midday meals are cooked over campfires. Fellow campers become friends. A small community of like minded people not caring about the world outside for a brief time. The campsite location is more important at these places.

But I digress.

Saturday morning I walked Colter Bay campground, all 350 sites.

I was staying in number 125.

Colter Bay_125

Yes, the shoe is still on top on the bear box. It remained so after I left. Red, I hardly knew you…

The Fed’s redid some campsites in J loop to be in accordance with the ADA act. Paved and leveled and they added electricity as well.

Colter Bay_180

And just to make sure no one uses them they raised the price to $45 from $21.

While walking the campground I came across this:

Colter Bay_127

No Mr. EE, this is not what I mean when I say I want to camp off the ground.

Saturday afternoon I went to Colter Village to have a shower (these are the only showers in the whole park) and check the place out.

Colter Bay Laundry-Showers

There is also a store, restaurant, cabins, and a marina. The marina was my favorite. They had canoe rentals.

Colter Bay Marina Store

I looked at the lake behind me and offered them $1 for a rental. They replied, actually laughed, and said they were closed for the season. I took another look at the lake.

Colter Bay Marina

Wouldn’t have got much paddling done anyway without a lot of portages.

I went back to camp slightly disappointed and tried to figure out what to eat for dinner. I found four hot dogs at the bottom of the cooler and four buns in my glove compartment. That should work.

I let the buns steam while I boiled the hot dogs.

Hot Dog Feast

Supposedly some nuts can eat 60 of these things in 2 minutes or something like that. I managed two in ten minutes. Tossed the others. No nitrates for my gal Red.

Sunday I headed south to the other big campground here, Gros Ventre. I thought it was pronounced Gross Venter (which reminded me of my sister) but it is French and pronounced “Gra Vont”. Yeah, like we don’t know what “Grand Teton” actually means.

The morning was beautiful and I passed by the Snake River, which drains from Jackson Lake, and grabbed a few pics.

Snake River 1

Snake River 2

That is Mt. Moran again. And my kind of country.

And my kind of roadblock.

Roadblock 1

Yep.

Roadblock 2

Hairy.

A few more miles down the road brings you to a spot called the “Snake River Overlook”.

Ansel Adams took a classic photo from this spot many years ago. Google it. If your kids wonder why there is no color just spank them and say they missed the good old days.

My effort is garbage compared to his. The trees have grown and the lighting is bad.

Grand Tetons 5

But that was the spot. I did capture the Teton’s wearing modest clothing, however.

Grand Tetons 6

One mile north of Moose Junction is a shortcut to Gros Ventre campground that includes a neat old barn.

Old Barn (2)

And lots of mud.

Mud

Courtesy of Moisture Man. That would be me for those not paying attention.

I arrived at the campground.

Gros Ventre Sign

The campsites are numbered up to 372 but 54 of them are now set aside for staff.

Gros Ventre Closed Loop

This was a crowded campground, being a Sunday in mid-September. I got number 330.

Gros Ventre_330

I parked and walked it. They have the same deal as Colter Bay, a few new electric sites like number 169.

Gros Ventre_169

But what I was most impressed by was this campsite.

Gros Ventre_065

I think they have it all covered. Except for an ATV.

I only stayed one night and kept moving. I saw the sun hit the mountains heading out on Monday.

Grand Teton Sunrise 1

There was also a fog bank that I ran into shortly thereafter. You can see it in the picture above.

Fog Zone

This is about the point when I first started noticing weird cloud formations. but more on that later.

Downtown Jackson, Wyoming was socked in but as I crossed the Tetons it became clearer.

Jackson, Wyoming

Teton Road

More weird stuff in the clouds.

I ignored it and kept driving the Teton Scenic Byway.

Teton Sign

Followed by the City of Rocks Back Country Byway.

City of Rocks Byway Sign 2

Remember the great movie “The Jerk?” One of my favorite parts was when Nathan was standing near the gas pumps while being shot at.

“He hates those cans, stay away from the cans.”

Well someone hated that sign. Threw some shotgun pellets at it.

City of Rocks Byway Sign 1

Anyway, there are two campgrounds here in southern Idaho, 270 miles away from Grand Teton National Park.

Conveniently they are on one sign.

Castle Rocks Sign

Castle Rocks is a state run spot. Showers, electricity, well kept up and $28 for you to enjoy it. Well worth it.

The sites are spotless, like number 29.

Castle Rocks_029

There are also several equestrian sites, such as number 38.

Castle Rocks_038

And even a couple of yurts.

Castle Rocks Yurt

I decided to stay at the Federal spot a mile or so away. Just a tad over $12.

City of Rocks Sign

For a reason. The sites are spread along five miles of dirt road. Most of the sites are walk-in and some are even farther away like the first four and the last three. I was towing a borrowed trailer and stopped one mile up the road.

Rocky Road

That is the good road.

I set up next to Elephant Rock. Site 12.

Elephant Rock

City Campsite

Then I looked over and saw climbers on it.

Elephant Climbers

Sporty.

My favorite part of the brief section that I visited was Camp Rock.

Camp Rock Sign

OK, this is part of the California Trail. Folks would dip their fingers into the axle grease on their covered wagons and write names on this rock.

Camp Rock Writing 1

Not much left.

Camp Rock Writing 2

Think about it. That is history you are looking at. They are all long dead and I sincerely hope that their pioneer spirit lives on in some of us.

In addition to some deep stirring in my soul I also took with me some unwanted guests.

Flies

A few dozen flies hitched a ride. I hit the road.

Empty Road

I rolled down all my windows and relocated them in Beverly Hills, Nevada.

Beverly Hills

Probably not the one I told them about. They are flies. They had no choice.

Couple of hundred miles later I camped at Southfork Recreation Area in the Silver State.

Southfork Sign

A big recreation area with only 25 campsites. Mine was number 20.

Southfork_020

The park is only 10 miles south of Elko and fills up quickly.

Southfork View 1

But what I liked was the sunset. As it was going down a boat motored by.

Southfork Sunset 1

And then:

Southfork Sunset 3

Southfork Sunset 5

Love it.

Another 300 miles across Interstate 80 on Wednesday brought me to Washoe Lake State Park. But not without some delays.

Interstate 80 Construction 1

Washoe Lake Sign

Washoe is located 5 miles north of Carson City and 18 miles south of Reno, a few miles east of the 395. I stopped at the Sierra Trading Post Outlet in Reno to pick up some hiking shoes with tread. Those pics will be in another blog post.

There are 49 sites here and most have great views of the Eastern Sierra’s like mine, number 8.

Washoe Lake_008

It was as the sun was setting, however, that the aliens came out to play.

Washoe Lake Sunset 1

An Imperial Battle Cruiser showed up first, disguised as a cloud.

Washoe Lake Sunset 2

The battle raged fiercely, the sound deafening.

Washoe Lake Sunset 5

Finally, a well placed Alliance shot destroyed the enemy, turning it into a cockroach.

Washoe Lake Sunset 6

Yeah. The things you experience while camping. I don’t need TV when I’ve got T-Rex.

I will leave you with a helpful hint.

You are at your campsite, the meal is done, you are relaxing in your chair reading a book. You like birds and you pay attention when there is a sound or flash of color that is new to you. Suddenly the new bird you noticed swoops towards you and lands on a limb right above your head.

Do not look up. After I went to the bathroom to wipe my face off, I never did see it again.

Regards,

Greg